It’s loud
and colorful and full of smells that are overwhelming. Machane Yehuda – that would
be the Jewish Market in Jerusalem – is an absolutely happening place and one of
the iconic shops pulling in the crowds is Marzipan.
Most mornings, especially on Friday with the approach of Shabbat, lines of Marzipan fans start maneuvering for position, waiting for the first batches of rugelach to be pulled from the oven. It’s a special bit of sweetness that is offered up, a gooey bit of goodness filled with chocolate. Forgive my mixing of food groups, but the cookies sell like hot cakes!
I mention
all this now because I’ll be returning to Jerusalem this spring and will be paying
a pilgrimage to Marzipan. This time I know the rules and won’t be grabbing
whatever’s around being offered. Let me explain.
Back in
2009, after reading about the bakery and all that it has to offer, I managed to
stumble on the shop. Machane Yehuda was coming to life, hundreds of locals and
tourists milling about, shopping for fresh fruit and veggies; spices and
sweets; fish, poultry and beef. Oh, and rugelach.
In fact, it seemed
that half the city was camped outside the doors of Marzipan, crazed from
the sweet smells wafting from its innards. When I finally managed to make it
inside, I saw that there were a half-dozen women standing about. I wasn’t
certain how to go about placing an order, but it seemed that everyone was
deferring to me. Go figure! So I raised two fingers and did a little pointing,
handed over a few shekels and walked out with a bag of goodies.
It was only
a few moments later when I spotted the baker pulling out yet another fresh tray
of rugelach that I realized I had just managed to scarf up the dregs of the
last batch. I’m thinking the appropriate cliché is “live and learn”!
Truth to
tell, Marzipan’s rugelach is an acquired taste. For some folks, it can be a
little too gooey and a little too sweet. There are at least a half-dozen other
bakeries in the same area selling versions of the Jewish cookie that’s light
and flaky and just this side of the uber sweetness of Marzipan.
A footnote: Despite the foolish belief of some
foodie novices, there’s absolutely no marzipan in Marzipan’s cookies; and, for those
who care, the iconic cookie is called rugelach, not marzipan. That said, no
matter what you call it, don’t forget to call me if you’re in my little corner
of the world and happen to have a bag of the stuff.